Transform muddy, weedy dirt patches into a low-maintenance, lush green lawn—no green thumb required.
This guide walks you through every stage of installing artificial turf on soil, from prepping your ground to finishing touches, with tips for both DIYers and those hiring professionals.
Soil is organic, dynamic, and prone to issues that ruin artificial turf:
• Settling: Over time, loose soil compacts unevenly, creating bumps or low spots.
• Weeds: Seeds in soil sprout through turf, ruining its clean look.
• Waterlogging: Clay or dense soil traps water, rotting turf backing and causing mold.
• Shifting: Soft soil lets turf slide, leading to wrinkles or seams splitting.
The solution? A purpose-built base that stabilizes soil, improves drainage, and blocks weeds. Turflory’s installation method turns problematic soil into a reliable foundation for 10+ years of turf life.
Before starting, stock up on these essentials (sizes depend on your lawn area):
• Rake (for leveling soil and base materials)
• Shovel or mini-excavator (for digging—rent one for large areas)
• Plate compactor (critical for base compaction; rent for 50–100/day)
• Utility knife (sharp, for cutting turf)
• Level tool (4-ft or laser level, to check slopes)
• Landscape staples/nails (U-shaped, 15–20cm long, for securing fabric and turf)
• Artificial turf roll: Choose landscape turf (e.g., Turflory’s Residential Series) for softness and realism.
• Weed control fabric: Heavy-duty geotextile (not plastic—lets water drain).
• Base materials: Crushed stone (4–10mm) or decomposed granite (DG) for drainage and stability.
• Seaming tape & adhesive: For joining multiple turf panels (skip if using one roll).
Start with a clean, level dirt surface—this avoids future headaches:
1. Clear the area: Pull weeds, remove grass, and dig up roots (use herbicide for deep-rooted plants, wait 2 weeks to let it work). Pick up rocks, sticks, and debris (even small stones cause bumps).
2. Excavate to the right depth: Dig down 5–10cm. For clay soil or high-traffic areas, dig 10–12cm (extra space for drainage).
3. Level and slope: Rake the soil flat. Use a level to create a 1–2% slope (1cm drop per meter) away from buildings—this stops water pooling.
4. Compact the soil: Run the plate compactor over the excavated area once. Compacted soil prevents sinking later.
The base is the “backbone” of your turf—don’t rush this:
1. Add the first base layer: Spread 3–5cm of crushed stone evenly. Rake to ensure consistent depth (no thin spots).
2. Compact again: Run the plate compactor over the stone 2–3 times, moving in overlapping circles. Test firmness—if your foot sinks more than 1cm, compact again.
3. Add a top base layer (optional): For a smoother surface (great for barefoot use), add 1–2cm of fine sand or DG. Rake and compact once more.
Pro Tip from Turflory: If you live in a rainy area, mix in 10% gravel (10–20mm) with the crushed stone for better drainage.
Stop weeds before they start—this step saves hours of maintenance:
1. Cut fabric to size: Lay the geotextile over the base, leaving 5–10cm overlaps at seams (so weeds can’t grow through gaps).
2. Secure with staples: Drive landscape staples through the fabric into the base, spacing them 30–40cm apart. Focus on edges and overlaps—wind can lift loose fabric.
Now for the fun part—turning your base into a lawn:
1. Unroll and relax the turf: Lay the Turflory turf roll over the fabric, making sure the grass fibers face the same direction (for a uniform look). Let it sit 2–4 hours (out of direct sun) to release wrinkles from packaging.
2. Trim to fit: Stand on the turf and cut along the edges with a utility knife (cut from the back—easier to see the line). Leave 1–2cm extra at borders (trim later for a tight fit).
3. Seam panels (if needed): For large areas:
◦ Align two turf panels, leaving a 1–2mm gap between them.
◦ Slide seaming tape under the gap (centered).
◦ Apply turf adhesive to the tape, then press the turf edges onto the tape.
◦ Weight the seam with heavy objects (e.g., buckets of sand) for 2–4 hours until dry.
1. Anchor the turf: Use U-shaped nails to secure the perimeter—space them 20–30cm apart, 5cm from the edge. Add nails every 50cm in the middle (and extra on slopes) to prevent shifting.
2. Brush the fibers: Use a stiff broom or power brush to comb the grass fibers upright. This makes the turf look natural and fluffs up the blades.
Turflory recommends matching your approach to your skill level and project size:
• Good for: Yards under 50 sq.m, flat ground, no complex slopes/drainage.
• Cost savings: Eliminates labor fees (3–8/sq.m).
• Turflory Tip: Watch our DIY Installation Video for step-by-step demos.
• Good for: Yards over 50 sq.m, sloped ground, clay soil, or those short on time.
• Benefits: Turflory’s certified teams handle drainage, compaction, and seaming perfectly—plus, you get a 2–3 year labor warranty.
• Get Started: Request a pro quote via Turflory Solutions.
• Fix: Add a French drain (perforated pipe wrapped in fabric) under the base, or regrade the slope to improve runoff.
• Fix: Pull small weeds by hand, or spot-treat with a pet-safe herbicide. For severe cases, add a second layer of weed fabric over the base.
• Fix: Lift the wrinkled area, re-compact the base (it may have settled), then re-nail the turf tightly.
Turflory’s landscape turf is engineered for soil foundations:
• Durable backing: Resists water damage and won’t rot in moist soil.
• UV-stabilized fibers: Stay green even in direct sun (no fading).
• Pet-friendly: Easy to clean and non-toxic for dogs/cats.
Explore the perfect turf for your soil project:
Final Note: A well-installed artificial lawn on soil saves 90% of the water used by natural grass, and needs no mowing or fertilizing. With Turflory’s guide, you’ll have a beautiful, low-maintenance lawn in just a weekend (or less, with pro help)!
